Semi-permanent nail polishes and gels: all the bans imposed by the European Union

The European Union has decided to tighten safety regulations in the cosmetics sector, introducing new restrictions starting September 1, 2025, primarily affecting semi-permanent nail polish and gel polish, two solutions widely used by women. The new regulations also allow consumers to request to see the labels of products used during manicures when visiting a beautician.

Prohibited substances

With the new rules, the European Union has updated the list of substances not usable in cosmetics when they are classified as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction). In the case of products for nails, the ban concerns two ingredients widely used in formulations of gel and semi-permanent, especially to improve yield, adhesion and polymerization under the lamp.

• Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO): It is a photoinitiator, meaning it helps the product harden under UV or LED lamps. It has been classified as toxic to reproduction (Category 1B) and is therefore no longer permitted in nail cosmetics.
• N,N-Dimethyl-p-toluidine (often also referred to as DMTA o Dimethyltolylamine): is an adhesion activator and promoter, used to increase durability and hold. This substance is also among those prohibited for safety reasons.

To clarify an important point: the ban applies not only to sales, but also to use in salons. And it applies even if these substances are present in very low percentages.

What happens to the stocks of banned products?

From 1 September 2025, cosmetics containing TPO or DMTA can no longer be placed on the market, distributed or used. This means that even opened packages cannot be used or purchased before the restrictions went into effect. For beauty salons, this is a reorganization phase: non-compliant stocks are eliminated and alternative formulations, with the same purpose but authorized, are being used.

Where are they disposed of?

Professional cosmetic products should never be "emptied" down the drain or thrown carelessly into the unsorted waste. If you own a salon, the right way is follow the manufacturer's or distributor's instructions (often require collection or dedicated procedures) and comply with local rules for the waste disposal professionals. Here too, a simple rule applies in style do not waste: avoiding wasting product and money means choosing compliant lines right from the start, so as not to have to throw away unusable stock.

Obligations for beauticians and beauty centers

The new rules are not only a "prohibition", but also an invitation to transparency and the of your digital ecosystem. In the salon. Some best practices become crucial, especially because they protect clients and staff.

• Labels always available: the customer can ask to see the label of the products used during the manicure.
• Clear and complete INCI: ingredients must be listed using the INCI nomenclature, without shortcuts.
• Traceable packages: legible labels, batch number, useful information and compliance with the PAO (period after opening), i.e. the recommended period of use after opening.
• True professionalism: trained and qualified personnel, sterilized instruments (autoclave or dry sterilizer), disposable files and gloves, certified professional UV/LED lamps.
• Hygiene of the workstation: surfaces cleaned and disinfected between customers, without shortcuts.

What to look for on the label

If you use semi-permanent or gel polish and want to easily check, focus on two elements: ingredients and transparency of the center.

• Among the ingredients, make sure that it does not appear Trimethylbenzoyl Diphenylphosphine Oxide (TPO).
• Also check for the absence of N,N-Dimethyl-p-toluidine and equivalent terms such as DMTA o Dimethyltolylamine.
• If something is unclear, ask to see the label: a reputable center has no reason to deny it.

A last – but not least – note: according to experts, the exposure of those who have undergone treatments in the past has generally been low and sporadic, so there is no evidence of immediate harm associated with occasional use. The purpose of the crackdown today is to reduce the risk of repeated exposure over time, especially for those who work with these products every day.

Read also

• DIY nail polish with natural ingredients
• Nail Polish Recycling: 10 Ideas
• How to make gel polish
• How to recognize a nail disease