Pentedattilo: Discovering the charming and mysterious Calabrian village

An enormous hand that recalls, in its majesty, that of the Cyclopes marks the entrance to the suggestive and mysterious ghost village of Pentedattilo, located at the foot of Mount Calvario, in the far south of Calabria. It's called a "ghost town" because the village experienced a progressive and inexorable depopulation, to the point of being almost completely abandoned. In the years since, however, thanks to the commitment of several local associations, Pentedattilo has slowly begun to flourish again. Today, it has just three permanent residents, but with the arrival of summer, it comes alive with artisans, visitors, and cultural initiatives. We visited and were literally enchanted!

Origini

Its name derives from the Greek “Pentadàktylos” (Penta = five from Ktilos = fingers) because the village stands at the foot of a gigantic five-fingered rock, similar to a hand. Its history is lost in the mists of time and the first mention, as the official website explains, is contained in a passage from the life of Saint Elias the Younger from the 9th century AD, but it is believed that human presence existed here as early as prehistoric times.

In Greek times it probably became a small strategic military defensive settlement, and in Roman times from a rock/military settlement it transformed into a perched citadel. It later became a fiefdom of the Francoperta, the Alberti, and finally the Clemente-Filangeri families. In the 60s, due to massive emigration to northern Italy, it began to completely depopulate.

The Alberti Massacre

Unfortunately Pentedattilo is also famous for the “The Alberti Massacre“We must go back to 1686, during the Easter celebrations that took place in the castle of Pentedattilo. On that occasion, the Marquis Lorenzo Alberti promised his sister Antonia in marriage to his brother-in-law Don Petrillo Cortez, annoyed by the clandestine relationship between the young woman and the Baron of Montebello, Bernardino Abenavoli del Franco. Between Alberti and Abenavoli families, in fact, there was no love lost between them, due to deep rivalries. Wounded in his pride and heart, Bernardino reacted ferociously: a few days later he kidnapped his beloved and took revenge on Lorenzo, killing him and massacring the entire family. He eventually managed to marry Antonia, but fate separated them forever.

Pentegatti and Domy Pizzi's atelier

At the entrance to the village you come across a nice feline colony, “Pentegatti”, almost as if to act as a sentry to a A joyful atelier. Here, artist Domenica Pizzi, along with her charming husband Giorgio, welcomes visitors with her creations: small and large works of art, including delicious hand-painted magnets… on mussel shells! A real gem not to be missed.

We asked Domenica what inspired her to open her atelier in Pentedattilo, how her love for art developed, and, of course, some interesting facts about the feline colony:

Given my educational background and my strong aptitude for creative manual skills, supported by my acquisition of various decorative painting techniques, I embraced the idea of ​​creating an artisan workshop in Pentedattilo. I don't live in the village, but I've been here every day for 19 years. From day one, I realized that by painting in this place, my creations increasingly took on the appearance of a world of a thousand shades of color. I have a need to surround myself with as many colors as possible. I chose Pentedattilo because it's a beautiful place, rich in history, both fascinating and dramatic, because it was the scene of a massacre called the "Alberti Massacre" (April 16-17, 1686). Sometimes, and I really enjoy it, I accompany tourists (I'm not a guide, just an enthusiast) around the village, telling them its history. I don't feel the need to describe the beauty of the place because it's clear for everyone to see, but the story needs to be told so that visitors can take home a richer and more complete experience. Here I take care of the wonderful cats. I've registered the feline colony, about 30 of them, my friends, calling it Pentegatti.

If you want to take a look at the wonders created by Domenica, you can find her both on Facebook that of Instagram with the name “Domy Pizzi”.

Get inspired

A visit to the ancient city is not to be missed Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, with its square-based bell tower, Byzantine-style dome, and pinnacle covered in colorful ceramics. Inside are also the tombs of the Alberti family.

Another church not to be missed is that of Saint Mary of Candlemas, dedicated to the “Madonna della Purificazione”, also known as Candelora.

Among the most suggestive stages there is the Castle, or rather, what remains of the ancient building: in Roman times it was a military fortress, later transformed into a castle by the Alberti feudal lords. It was here that the famous and tragic "Tragedy of the Alberti" took place.

During your walk, don't forget to take a picture of the romantic kissing bench, Made from recycled materials by volunteer Alvin Tripodi. All this against an exceptional backdrop: a breathtaking panorama that will remain etched in your memory.

Craft shops

One more beautiful than the other! We go from Daniela Lorenzi's Danisia laboratory, where accessories and furnishings are created using macramé and other techniques, the result of a perfect balance between tradition and innovation, to the charming hobby workshop dedicated to wood carving and the creation of artisanal soaps. And then there's the fragrant House of Bergamot, Managed by Francesco Malaspina, a sensory experience that tells the story of the region through its most precious citrus fruit.

Escher's visit

Over the centuries, Pentedattilo has also fascinated great personalities, including the famous writer and traveler Edward Lear and the renowned Dutch engraver and graphic artist Maurits cornelis escher. The latter visited the village in 1930, accompanied by Giuseppe Haas Triverio, Robert Schiess and the historian Jean Rousset.
Struck by the evocative beauty of the place, Escher dedicated four magnificent engravings to Pentedattilo, that capture its soul suspended between rock and silence.

Where to sleep

Today, thanks to the efforts of local associations, Pentedattilo has been reborn as a true albergo diffuso (apartment hotel), where you can stay for a few days immersed in the quiet and magical atmosphere of the village. Available accommodations include:

• le Rural Houses, managed with passion by Francesco Praticò and his wife Francesca
• la Rossella Holiday Home, perfect for those seeking a familiar and authentic welcome.

Read also:

• The most beautiful villages in Southern Italy
• Village life, choose where you get paid, and not a little, to move and open a business
• One-euro houses: where to buy them across Italy. Coronavirus pushes people to move to rural areas.