The Alta Via del Sale. By bike from the Alps to the beaches of Liguria.

The Alta Via del Sale is a spectacular road connecting the Piedmont and French Alps to the Ligurian Sea. The route is completely unpaved, completely safe, and allows you to combine the thrills of high altitude with the refreshing pleasure of a dip in the sea. Typically, the mountain bike route is divided into stages, starting from Limone Piemonte and ending in Ventimiglia through the Nervia Valley. Alternating, in the space of a few hours and in a completely natural way, the Alpine climate with the sea breeze already provides a feeling of great well-being. But the uniqueness of the Via del Sale begins with the fact that, at an altitude of between 1.800 and 2.100 meters, you cycle along a dirt road formerly used as a military road, surrounded by 2.600 botanical species . You pedal halfway up the mountainside, crossing Alpine passes, hairpin bends, and the evocative Carsene area, which presents an almost lunar landscape.

The environment is pristine, the nature still wild, with unforgettable panoramic views. The Alta Via del Sale, sometimes carved into the rock, sometimes suspended on hairpin bends, or threaded through larches and firs, is to be experienced as a natural monument rather than a road to be traveled. The first stage ends in Limone Piemonte, a small corner of paradise nestled in the Maritime Alps, with a
The typical mountain village atmosphere. From here, the route descends gently, passing through the villages of the Nervia Valley, with their characteristic alleyways, until reaching Ventimiglia, whose coast is dotted with free, clean, and well-equipped beaches.

Origins of the name

The name Alta Via del Sale (High Salt Road) originates from the ancient mule caravans that crossed the Alpine chain heading towards the Ligurian coast, carrying loads of salt, oil, cheese, grains, and, above all, salt. More than a road, it can be considered a network of roads that for centuries marked the route of the great commercial traffic that generated the wealth of this area.

Get inspired

The Via del Sale (Salt Road) is an ancient route originally used by traders transporting salt from the sea to the hinterland , following winding mule tracks accompanied by breathtaking views. Contrary to popular belief, there is not a single "Salt Road," but rather a network of variants and detours that branch off along the original route. Among its most picturesque itineraries is the one connecting Limone Piemonte, now a renowned ski resort, to Ventimiglia, a charming town on the Ligurian Riviera. The historic fortifications are also worth mentioning. The Bosco delle Navette is for those who love to immerse themselves in pristine nature; and Monte Saccarello, the highest point, offers a unique view.

Limone Piemonte

Although the town's coat of arms features a lemon, the toponym Limone Piemonte has nothing to do with the fruit . According to local scholars, the name could derive from the Provençal expression "li mount," used to identify mountains; or from the Greek leimon , meaning "place rich in pasture grass." Located in the Maritime Alps, near the borders with France and Liguria, Limone Piemonte is one of Italy's most historic and innovative tourist destinations.

The historic center, now completely redeveloped, boasts large pedestrian areas. In recent years, thanks to collaboration between the administration and local entrepreneurs, the town has invested in digital infrastructure throughout the village and the ski area, becoming one of the first smart cities in the Alpine region . Today, it is part of the Alpine Pearls circuit for its commitment to sustainability and, since 2019, has boasted the Orange Flag of the Italian Touring Club.

Melosa Hill

Situated at 1.545 meters above sea level, in the heart of the Ligurian Alps Regional Natural Park, this pass lies between Liguria and France, immersed in a pristine landscape. Colle Melosa is the ideal destination for those traveling by motorcycle or seeking tranquility in the mountains, thanks to the spectacular views it offers and the chance to spot alpine fauna such as chamois and eagles. The area also preserves fortifications and barracks dating back to the 30s.

Shuttle Forest

It is the southernmost larch forest in the Italian Alps. It extends over 1.000 hectares, dominated by larch, although silver fir and beech are increasing in number thanks to more favorable climatic conditions. Originally a wooded pasture and a source of valuable timber, it is now a beautiful nature reserve featuring hiking trails and paths.

Ventimiglia

Overlooking the Ligurian Sea on the border with France, in Ventimiglia you can visit the Città Alta (Upper Town), with its medieval streets; the Cathedral of the Assumption; and the Baptistery. The Hanbury Botanical Garden , filled with exotic plants, is also worth a visit. The Albintimilium archaeological site offers a glimpse into the city's Roman past. The beaches and seaside promenade are also beautiful.

When to go

The best time to visit is from mid-June (after the snow melts) to mid-October , when weather conditions are generally more favorable. Keep in mind, however, that some sections (such as the Colle di Tenda Tunnel or the Bosco delle Navette) may still have snow in early summer. The climate is typically mountainous: variable, often unpredictable, and subject to rapid change. In autumn, traffic is open primarily to pedestrians, cyclists, and motor vehicles.

Where to eat

There are several refreshment points along the Alta Via del Sale. In Limone Piemonte, for example, you can begin your journey with a traditional breakfast or lunch at a refuge (such as Garelli) or at the Cabanaira Restaurant. Along the way, recommended stops include the Rifugio Don Barbera, surrounded by nature, and the Rifugio Marguareis , where you can enjoy polenta, cheeses, and cured meats. At the end of the day, you can treat yourself to a hearty dinner at one of the welcoming trattorias specializing in traditional Piedmontese and Occitan cuisine.

Where to sleep

There are several accommodation options. For example, the Locanda La Via del Sale, a hiking refuge located in Sanfront (Cuneo). For large groups, the Casa Via del Sale, located between the Ligurian and Maritime Alps, is ideal, with 100 beds. The charming Agriturismo Sulla Via del Sale, nestled in the Pavia Apennines at 1.200 meters on Mount Lesima, is inspired by the principles of sharing and conviviality. Finally, the Rifugio F. Allavena in Pigna (Imperia), appreciated by many for its strategic location halfway along the route , as well as for its excellent cuisine.

Information

Please note that access is free for pedestrians and cyclists, but not for motorcyclists. Motorized vehicles must pay a fee . Motorized vehicles are prohibited on Tuesdays and Thursdays. For more information on the various itineraries, where to eat and sleep, or for any updates, please visit the official website: https://www.altaviadelsale.com

How to get there

The Alta Via del Sale is accessible by car from six main entrances : Limone Piemonte (in the Cabanaira area), Briga Alta (Upega), Ormea, La Brigue, Tenda, and Pigna. For those traveling on foot or by bicycle, there are also dedicated access points from the Gesso and Pesio Valleys, ideal for hikers with good physical condition. Motorized traffic is permitted only with suitable vehicles and, as mentioned, upon payment of a toll. Limone Piemonte is also easily accessible by train, thanks to the Cuneo–Ventimiglia line.

Read also:

• Path of the Gods: Walking suspended above the sea
• Colfiorito Marsh: between herons and lentil plantations
• Bergeggi Island: Kayaking through the caves of a nature reserve

Cover photo by © ATL Cuneo Photographic Archive